Stepping into Scale
This would be the first R/C Scale plane I had ever built. Scale model planes come in several variations. There is "True Scale" which is an exact miniature version of a specific full size plane. These planes copy the outline of the plane, wings and tail group. The paint scheme and markings along with panels lines, rivets, access doors and all the other features of the the full size plane are duplicated. These planes win contests and are very complex and difficult to build and fly. Next is "Semi-Scale" they are not exact copies. The differences may be subtle but are noticeable to the trained eye. They often look much like the originals but some changes to the airframe, wing and tail group are made to make the plane easier to build and fly. These planes often have much of the additional detailing done as on a "True Scale" plane and you end up with a very good looking and flying plane. "Stand Off Scale" is a plane that if you stand back looks kind of real but has had major changes made to it. They might be longer, boxier and have had the wings and tail pieces enlarged. This was also done to to make them easier to build and fly. Much of the detailing was left off or badly represented. These planes are Sport planes built to fly and look in the air somewhat like a real plane. Top Flite Warbird kits during this time period were "Stand Off Scale", it said so right on the box, but were at the high end as they did make up into a decent approximation of a Warbird.
Starting Up
This was the biggest challenge in R/C modeling I had faced. Top Flite made good kits but the manual could have been better. It left out or assumed that the builder would know how to do certain steps without any instruction. I followed the manual as much as possible, especially in the beginning. One of the first things it had you do was inventory and mark all the parts by name and place them together. This was a good step as I found I was missing a few of the wood pieces. Nothing important just some of the long straight pieces for the wing. Over the years I would build several more Top Flite kits and all of them had missing pieces! Very annoying and obviously they had a quality control problem. Maybe that's why they said to do an inventory before starting to build!
This plane was built similar to all the other planes I had been building. It just had many, many more pieces that need to be fitted and shaped and shaped some more. The tail went quick as it was just like my other planes, a flat piece of balsa that you made into the the stab and rudder. The wing had many more pieces than my previous planes and as retracts and flaps were to be added was not going to be a fast build. The retracts installation was not shown on the plans. There may have been an addendum sheet detailing what to do but I do remember that the magazines the owner had included provided step by step instructions for adding the retracts. This was all new to me and it was taking awhile to get the wing done. When I started building I had called the owner and told him I thought it would "Take about a month". WOW, was I wrong. I was already in 3 weeks and hadn't even finished the wing. The retracts and flaps were very hard to do. Getting them to fit and work without binding was giving me much difficulty. I had to start over and over on the retract installation before getting them to work correctly. This ate up a lot of time as I had to make new wood parts with small changes in the angle or size of that piece. Then a trial fit and make more changes until I was satisfied the retract would work OK. Since there were 2 retracts I then had to duplicate those parts and start trial fitting them into place until that one also worked. This was very time consuming. Eventually I got everything squared away and was able to sheet the wing. Whew, that was a bitch!
The fuselage was much easier as it was a basic box with a formers added for shape. This went much quicker until I got to the nose. This required planking and shaping. Never having done any planking this also had to be redone numerous times until I was happy with how it looked. I seem to remember a plastic bottom piece for the cowl but that might have been on another P-51 that I built later. After lots of carving and sanding I had the basic bare airframe done. The air tank and lines for the retracts were in place and everything was coming together. I put the wing on and it sat nice on those retracts. It looked good. I checked the alignment of the wing, stabilizer and rudder and made the needed corrections (shimming, carving, sanding) until everything was square and was at the proper angles.
It had been over 30 days so I now had to call the owner and tell him it was going to be a little longer. I told him it was up on its legs and ready to fiberglass and paint and I needed to know how he wanted it finished. He said he'd be right over and had a radio and some other things for the plane he wanted installed.
He was OK with the delay and liked what he saw. The radio was a top of the line 7 channel Futaba. He also had some pictures of P-51's and showed me one that he really liked. It was a polished bare metal late war scheme. I had to tell him that was not possible as it would require special paint and equipment that I didn't have. He was disappointed but I pointed out one of the other planes that was painted in green with a white stripe around the cowl. That one I could do using cheap hardware store paint with a clear top coat to fuel proof it. He agreed and then pulled out and handed to me a Robart retractable tail wheel. This was unexpected. As the back end of the plane was all closed up and I had already added the stock tail wheel it would necessitate some major surgery and design work to fit a retractable tail wheel. I told him that I wasn't sure if this was possible, I would try but this change would cost him. He asked "How much?" And I said "I don't know" I'd have to get back to him after I had time to figure it out. I did tell him that if he wanted to forget about the tail wheel I could have it glassed, painted, motor and the radio installed within 2 weeks. He said for me to try to do the tail wheel and let him know how it was going. He left and I was unsure on how to proceed. Instead of cutting open the fuselage I used the plans and die cut sheets to make templates of the rear structure of the plane. These I used to make a mock-up of that rear section. I took the tail wheel retract unit and tried it in several positions. The main problem was that a P-51's tail wheel retracts toward the nose. The Robart unit if used as designed retracted rearwards. It also blocked the pushrods. I turned the unit around so it would retract forward and saw that if I angled it back and added some hardwood cross braces to mount it to, it might work. I would also have to bend up a new strut for the wheel. The pushrods were still blocked but a way around that was to use Ny-Rods. These are flexible round plastic rods that slide inside a plastic tube. You could drill holes in the formers and place the outer tube through them and glue them there or just glue the tube to any structure or cross braces available. Since they were flexible you had some some ability to snake them around a bit. I would need to use four. One for the elevator, one for the stab., one for the retract and one to run a pair of control lines to steer the tail wheel on the retract. Working this out on the mock-up let me figure out the placement of the crosspieces and where to drill the holes. I also would need to change the location of from where the stock pushrods would have exited the fuselage. Now it was time to open up the back of the plane. It was tough to take apart what I had previously spent days putting together. Using the pieces from the mock-up helped but I still needed to fine tune them to get a perfect fit. This modification took several weeks to complete but I did get everything shoehorned into place and even found a way to add gear doors that would open and close using thin wire and a rubber band. That worked so well I added doors to the main gear also.
To finish up the plane I would need to fiberglass the fuselage and wings. This would be another first as even though I had been glassing the center section of the wings on many of the other planes I had built this was the first time I would be doing a whole plane. I read everything in the mags about how to do this and knew it was going to be a challenge. I was not mistaken. Before the fiberglass you use filler on low spots and imperfections. Filler is a very thick spreadable material that after it dries you can sand easily. Once you have everything sanded to the correct shape it's time to fiberglass. The resins used are smelly and it gets everywhere. You have to work at a steady but quick pace and make sure you lay out the fiberglass cloth flat and without wrinkles. Sounds much easier than it is. Once again it took several attempts to get it right. After the resin had cured hard it was time to check for dry spots that needed more resin and add it. After waiting for that to dry it was time to fill the weave of the cloth. You did this with talc and more resin to have a smooth surface for paint. You also sanded between each step. Lots of sanding. Then you would use primer paint and sand. Primer again and sand. Primer again and sand. This was done to fill any low spots that were to small for filler. Each time you would sand almost all the primer off until the last time when only a light sanding was done. Now the color coat went on. If you did a good job with the primer coat the color coat would go on very smooth and you might only have to do one coat. That did not happen. I had runs and thin spots and all the other mistakes you can make when painting something. So,,, got out the sandpaper and sand down to the primer. I found that I liked sanding as the results you saw immediately. After several more coats of paint and much sanding I had a green plane. I still needed to add the unit markings and the cowl still needed that white stripe around the front. I needed to let the paint cure for a few days before I could tape off the nose area and add the other markings and insignia decals. Plus I could use a break. Waiting about a week I then finished up the paint work and decals. I could now start installing the radio gear and the special 180° servo needed for the tail wheel. It went pretty fast until I tried to get that tail wheel steering to work. That was a bear to get the wheel to center using fishing line. I got all the servos hooked up to the flying surfaces, to the tail retract and to the retract valve for the main gear. I pumped up the tank for the retracts and blocked up the wings so the wheels were off the ground. I turned on the radio and hit the switch for the retracts. Wham! Those wheels went up so fast and hard I thought they would keep going right through the wing. But they did go up with no binding. The tail wheel went up but not far enough, I would need to tweak the strut a little so the wheel would go completely into the wheel well. I also needed to slow down the force and speed of the main gear. There were air line restrictors made to do just that. So another trip to a hobby store was planned. This should be the last trip needed for this plane!
Not much left now. I'm in the home stretch. Mount the engine and fuel tank, get it all plumbed, add the kit details to the cockpit, affix the canopy and windscreen and I'm done. HA!
I was at a hobby shop and saw some things that plastic kit modelers use when building tanks and armored vehicles. These were metal detail parts like tank barrels that I could use as machine guns with just a little bit of work. I also saw a plastic kit of a P-51 with an open canopy. I liked how that looked. They also has instruments bezels and other interior detail parts I could use to add some character to the cockpit. I bought a bunch of this stuff and went home to start detailing the plane.
This went pretty good. I drilled some holes in the leading edge of the wing for the machine guns and slid in and glued those barrels in place. I had cut them down so just the tips would show past the wing. They looked really good. I took the dashboard for the plane and drilled out some holes for instruments. I glued some paper instrument faces to another piece shaped like the dash and glued those two together and then I added the bezels. At the hobby shop they sold me some stuff that was like a thin glue but it dried clear and after putting a drop inside a bezel it looked like the glass faces on instruments. So far so good. Making a hinged canopy was a little more difficult as I had to make the hinges. Luckily the hobby shop carried a line of etched metal parts that included hinges. You had to bend them around a pin which was a little tricky but soon I had a working canopy and a latch to keep it closed. I had installed the engine and fuel tank, all that was missing was a pilot. I wasn't sure if the owner wanted one so I called and told him his plane was ready. Surprisingly he didn't ask how much. He just said he'd been waiting for this day and would be right over.
This build took over 3 months working on it for 6 or more hours everyday except when I was waiting for things to dry. I had spent money on supplies and equipment. I had to buy that special servo for the tail wheel retract. I had bought those detail parts. The paint and fiberglass cloth and resin cost more than I thought it would. The wheels and tires were also expensive. Plus there was all that time I spent on the tail wheel. I figured I was in about 400 bucks and 400 hours! I had originally agreed to build this plane for $650.00. He had added a radio install and that beast of a tail wheel that I had never given him a price for. I hoped he liked my work and was not going to balk when I told him the price had doubled.
He got to the house in what seemed like minutes. I was nervous about how he was going to react. I had put the plane in the living room on the dining table. I had blocked up the plane off its wheels so I could show him the retracts, especially the tail wheel right away. I had the canopy open and the cockpit details were in full view. I had a lamp shining onto that plane.
When he arrived I took him right to the living room. All I had said was "Follow me". You had to go around a corner to enter the living room. I entered first, grabbed the transmitter and moved to the side so I could see his reaction to his first look at the finished plane. He turned the corner and came to a stop. I let him take it in for just a moment then I said "Watch this". I flicked the switch for the retracts and they started to close. Since I had added more restrictors to one side of the main gear than the other, one gear went up slower then the other one, just like a full scale Mustang! The inner gear doors went up and everything was tucked away. I lowered the gear and said "C'mere" and pointed at the tail. I knew he hadn't noticed that retract. He walked over a few steps and I said "Check out the tail wheel" and hit the switch again. When that wheel went up he just let out a whoop and said "how'd you get it to go forward?" I said "With a lot of work". He was now looking at the cockpit and canopy and was visibly moved. I pointed out some of the details and how to latch the canopy. He really liked the machine guns. We took it off the blocks so he could see its stance and stood there a long time just looking at that plane.
Finally he looked up and thanked me for doing such a good job and then he asked "So how much?" I waited a moment and said that the radio install was extra and that the tail wheel was time consuming and I had to redo work that had been completed. I said that I would throw in the cockpit and canopy as that was my idea. He said "Ok,but how much? I was on the spot. I looked at him and said "Double". He let out a sigh and said "That's all!" I nodded and he said "I need to go to the bank, I'll be right back" and he left. I hoped that wasn't his way of bailing out on me and the plane. I waited about thirty minutes and was getting anxious until I heard a car pull up out front and a door slam. I went out to meet him and he started counting out the money. He got to $1300 and kept going. $1400, $1500, $1600. He stopped at $1700 and said "Is that enough?" I said "Yeah, but that's way more them double". He said it was worth it to him and started to list off some of the things that warranted the bonus. First off the tail wheel. He was impressed it retracted forward not backwards as most R/C P-51's did. He knew about Mustangs and also knew this would set his plane apart from other P-51's at the field. The working canopy, cockpit detailing and the machine guns would also make it stand out. Then he looked at me and said in a rather stern and gruff voice "Where's the Pilot" then he laughed and I laughed and said "He's having a smoke". We laughed some more, had some beverages and then took the plane apart and put it in his car. He thank me. I thanked him and we said our goodbyes.
I saw him fly that plane at the field a few times and he always told everyone I was the builder.
Thus ended my first but not my last foray into Scale R/C. I soon moved again and got into R/C cars and never saw that plane or him again! Built I would in the future go on to build much larger Scale Planes!
Another Move,
 |
| This is what greeted you upon first opening the box. Lots and lots of wood! |
This would be the first R/C Scale plane I had ever built. Scale model planes come in several variations. There is "True Scale" which is an exact miniature version of a specific full size plane. These planes copy the outline of the plane, wings and tail group. The paint scheme and markings along with panels lines, rivets, access doors and all the other features of the the full size plane are duplicated. These planes win contests and are very complex and difficult to build and fly. Next is "Semi-Scale" they are not exact copies. The differences may be subtle but are noticeable to the trained eye. They often look much like the originals but some changes to the airframe, wing and tail group are made to make the plane easier to build and fly. These planes often have much of the additional detailing done as on a "True Scale" plane and you end up with a very good looking and flying plane. "Stand Off Scale" is a plane that if you stand back looks kind of real but has had major changes made to it. They might be longer, boxier and have had the wings and tail pieces enlarged. This was also done to to make them easier to build and fly. Much of the detailing was left off or badly represented. These planes are Sport planes built to fly and look in the air somewhat like a real plane. Top Flite Warbird kits during this time period were "Stand Off Scale", it said so right on the box, but were at the high end as they did make up into a decent approximation of a Warbird.
Starting Up
This was the biggest challenge in R/C modeling I had faced. Top Flite made good kits but the manual could have been better. It left out or assumed that the builder would know how to do certain steps without any instruction. I followed the manual as much as possible, especially in the beginning. One of the first things it had you do was inventory and mark all the parts by name and place them together. This was a good step as I found I was missing a few of the wood pieces. Nothing important just some of the long straight pieces for the wing. Over the years I would build several more Top Flite kits and all of them had missing pieces! Very annoying and obviously they had a quality control problem. Maybe that's why they said to do an inventory before starting to build!
This plane was built similar to all the other planes I had been building. It just had many, many more pieces that need to be fitted and shaped and shaped some more. The tail went quick as it was just like my other planes, a flat piece of balsa that you made into the the stab and rudder. The wing had many more pieces than my previous planes and as retracts and flaps were to be added was not going to be a fast build. The retracts installation was not shown on the plans. There may have been an addendum sheet detailing what to do but I do remember that the magazines the owner had included provided step by step instructions for adding the retracts. This was all new to me and it was taking awhile to get the wing done. When I started building I had called the owner and told him I thought it would "Take about a month". WOW, was I wrong. I was already in 3 weeks and hadn't even finished the wing. The retracts and flaps were very hard to do. Getting them to fit and work without binding was giving me much difficulty. I had to start over and over on the retract installation before getting them to work correctly. This ate up a lot of time as I had to make new wood parts with small changes in the angle or size of that piece. Then a trial fit and make more changes until I was satisfied the retract would work OK. Since there were 2 retracts I then had to duplicate those parts and start trial fitting them into place until that one also worked. This was very time consuming. Eventually I got everything squared away and was able to sheet the wing. Whew, that was a bitch!
The fuselage was much easier as it was a basic box with a formers added for shape. This went much quicker until I got to the nose. This required planking and shaping. Never having done any planking this also had to be redone numerous times until I was happy with how it looked. I seem to remember a plastic bottom piece for the cowl but that might have been on another P-51 that I built later. After lots of carving and sanding I had the basic bare airframe done. The air tank and lines for the retracts were in place and everything was coming together. I put the wing on and it sat nice on those retracts. It looked good. I checked the alignment of the wing, stabilizer and rudder and made the needed corrections (shimming, carving, sanding) until everything was square and was at the proper angles.
It had been over 30 days so I now had to call the owner and tell him it was going to be a little longer. I told him it was up on its legs and ready to fiberglass and paint and I needed to know how he wanted it finished. He said he'd be right over and had a radio and some other things for the plane he wanted installed.
He was OK with the delay and liked what he saw. The radio was a top of the line 7 channel Futaba. He also had some pictures of P-51's and showed me one that he really liked. It was a polished bare metal late war scheme. I had to tell him that was not possible as it would require special paint and equipment that I didn't have. He was disappointed but I pointed out one of the other planes that was painted in green with a white stripe around the cowl. That one I could do using cheap hardware store paint with a clear top coat to fuel proof it. He agreed and then pulled out and handed to me a Robart retractable tail wheel. This was unexpected. As the back end of the plane was all closed up and I had already added the stock tail wheel it would necessitate some major surgery and design work to fit a retractable tail wheel. I told him that I wasn't sure if this was possible, I would try but this change would cost him. He asked "How much?" And I said "I don't know" I'd have to get back to him after I had time to figure it out. I did tell him that if he wanted to forget about the tail wheel I could have it glassed, painted, motor and the radio installed within 2 weeks. He said for me to try to do the tail wheel and let him know how it was going. He left and I was unsure on how to proceed. Instead of cutting open the fuselage I used the plans and die cut sheets to make templates of the rear structure of the plane. These I used to make a mock-up of that rear section. I took the tail wheel retract unit and tried it in several positions. The main problem was that a P-51's tail wheel retracts toward the nose. The Robart unit if used as designed retracted rearwards. It also blocked the pushrods. I turned the unit around so it would retract forward and saw that if I angled it back and added some hardwood cross braces to mount it to, it might work. I would also have to bend up a new strut for the wheel. The pushrods were still blocked but a way around that was to use Ny-Rods. These are flexible round plastic rods that slide inside a plastic tube. You could drill holes in the formers and place the outer tube through them and glue them there or just glue the tube to any structure or cross braces available. Since they were flexible you had some some ability to snake them around a bit. I would need to use four. One for the elevator, one for the stab., one for the retract and one to run a pair of control lines to steer the tail wheel on the retract. Working this out on the mock-up let me figure out the placement of the crosspieces and where to drill the holes. I also would need to change the location of from where the stock pushrods would have exited the fuselage. Now it was time to open up the back of the plane. It was tough to take apart what I had previously spent days putting together. Using the pieces from the mock-up helped but I still needed to fine tune them to get a perfect fit. This modification took several weeks to complete but I did get everything shoehorned into place and even found a way to add gear doors that would open and close using thin wire and a rubber band. That worked so well I added doors to the main gear also.
To finish up the plane I would need to fiberglass the fuselage and wings. This would be another first as even though I had been glassing the center section of the wings on many of the other planes I had built this was the first time I would be doing a whole plane. I read everything in the mags about how to do this and knew it was going to be a challenge. I was not mistaken. Before the fiberglass you use filler on low spots and imperfections. Filler is a very thick spreadable material that after it dries you can sand easily. Once you have everything sanded to the correct shape it's time to fiberglass. The resins used are smelly and it gets everywhere. You have to work at a steady but quick pace and make sure you lay out the fiberglass cloth flat and without wrinkles. Sounds much easier than it is. Once again it took several attempts to get it right. After the resin had cured hard it was time to check for dry spots that needed more resin and add it. After waiting for that to dry it was time to fill the weave of the cloth. You did this with talc and more resin to have a smooth surface for paint. You also sanded between each step. Lots of sanding. Then you would use primer paint and sand. Primer again and sand. Primer again and sand. This was done to fill any low spots that were to small for filler. Each time you would sand almost all the primer off until the last time when only a light sanding was done. Now the color coat went on. If you did a good job with the primer coat the color coat would go on very smooth and you might only have to do one coat. That did not happen. I had runs and thin spots and all the other mistakes you can make when painting something. So,,, got out the sandpaper and sand down to the primer. I found that I liked sanding as the results you saw immediately. After several more coats of paint and much sanding I had a green plane. I still needed to add the unit markings and the cowl still needed that white stripe around the front. I needed to let the paint cure for a few days before I could tape off the nose area and add the other markings and insignia decals. Plus I could use a break. Waiting about a week I then finished up the paint work and decals. I could now start installing the radio gear and the special 180° servo needed for the tail wheel. It went pretty fast until I tried to get that tail wheel steering to work. That was a bear to get the wheel to center using fishing line. I got all the servos hooked up to the flying surfaces, to the tail retract and to the retract valve for the main gear. I pumped up the tank for the retracts and blocked up the wings so the wheels were off the ground. I turned on the radio and hit the switch for the retracts. Wham! Those wheels went up so fast and hard I thought they would keep going right through the wing. But they did go up with no binding. The tail wheel went up but not far enough, I would need to tweak the strut a little so the wheel would go completely into the wheel well. I also needed to slow down the force and speed of the main gear. There were air line restrictors made to do just that. So another trip to a hobby store was planned. This should be the last trip needed for this plane!
I was at a hobby shop and saw some things that plastic kit modelers use when building tanks and armored vehicles. These were metal detail parts like tank barrels that I could use as machine guns with just a little bit of work. I also saw a plastic kit of a P-51 with an open canopy. I liked how that looked. They also has instruments bezels and other interior detail parts I could use to add some character to the cockpit. I bought a bunch of this stuff and went home to start detailing the plane.
This went pretty good. I drilled some holes in the leading edge of the wing for the machine guns and slid in and glued those barrels in place. I had cut them down so just the tips would show past the wing. They looked really good. I took the dashboard for the plane and drilled out some holes for instruments. I glued some paper instrument faces to another piece shaped like the dash and glued those two together and then I added the bezels. At the hobby shop they sold me some stuff that was like a thin glue but it dried clear and after putting a drop inside a bezel it looked like the glass faces on instruments. So far so good. Making a hinged canopy was a little more difficult as I had to make the hinges. Luckily the hobby shop carried a line of etched metal parts that included hinges. You had to bend them around a pin which was a little tricky but soon I had a working canopy and a latch to keep it closed. I had installed the engine and fuel tank, all that was missing was a pilot. I wasn't sure if the owner wanted one so I called and told him his plane was ready. Surprisingly he didn't ask how much. He just said he'd been waiting for this day and would be right over.
This build took over 3 months working on it for 6 or more hours everyday except when I was waiting for things to dry. I had spent money on supplies and equipment. I had to buy that special servo for the tail wheel retract. I had bought those detail parts. The paint and fiberglass cloth and resin cost more than I thought it would. The wheels and tires were also expensive. Plus there was all that time I spent on the tail wheel. I figured I was in about 400 bucks and 400 hours! I had originally agreed to build this plane for $650.00. He had added a radio install and that beast of a tail wheel that I had never given him a price for. I hoped he liked my work and was not going to balk when I told him the price had doubled.
He got to the house in what seemed like minutes. I was nervous about how he was going to react. I had put the plane in the living room on the dining table. I had blocked up the plane off its wheels so I could show him the retracts, especially the tail wheel right away. I had the canopy open and the cockpit details were in full view. I had a lamp shining onto that plane.
 |
| Except for that bubble on the canopy (my canopy was just like the box art) this Mustang is very similar to the one I built. |
Finally he looked up and thanked me for doing such a good job and then he asked "So how much?" I waited a moment and said that the radio install was extra and that the tail wheel was time consuming and I had to redo work that had been completed. I said that I would throw in the cockpit and canopy as that was my idea. He said "Ok,but how much? I was on the spot. I looked at him and said "Double". He let out a sigh and said "That's all!" I nodded and he said "I need to go to the bank, I'll be right back" and he left. I hoped that wasn't his way of bailing out on me and the plane. I waited about thirty minutes and was getting anxious until I heard a car pull up out front and a door slam. I went out to meet him and he started counting out the money. He got to $1300 and kept going. $1400, $1500, $1600. He stopped at $1700 and said "Is that enough?" I said "Yeah, but that's way more them double". He said it was worth it to him and started to list off some of the things that warranted the bonus. First off the tail wheel. He was impressed it retracted forward not backwards as most R/C P-51's did. He knew about Mustangs and also knew this would set his plane apart from other P-51's at the field. The working canopy, cockpit detailing and the machine guns would also make it stand out. Then he looked at me and said in a rather stern and gruff voice "Where's the Pilot" then he laughed and I laughed and said "He's having a smoke". We laughed some more, had some beverages and then took the plane apart and put it in his car. He thank me. I thanked him and we said our goodbyes.
I saw him fly that plane at the field a few times and he always told everyone I was the builder.
Thus ended my first but not my last foray into Scale R/C. I soon moved again and got into R/C cars and never saw that plane or him again! Built I would in the future go on to build much larger Scale Planes!
Another Move,
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